The cleaning and care of wood surfaces differs depending on the surface treatment of the wood.
Untreated solid wood is the most sensitive and quickly absorbs water and discoloration, resulting in stains. For solid wood tables, untreated wood is therefore less suitable.
Oiled or waxed solid wood is less sensitive. Water does not soak in immediately, so stains don’t form right away. Since the wood surface is not completely sealed by oil and wax, liquid can still penetrate the material. With waxed surfaces, the wood pores are almost completely sealed, so wood oil is the better choice for a natural wood climate.
Painted wood is less sensitive in everyday use, which is why our live edge tables, for example, are typically painted. However, moisture should not be allowed to affect the surface for long periods, and hot objects should not be placed directly on the surface. Scratches are usually more visible on painted wood than on other surface treatments.
Of course, these cleaning and care tips apply not only to tables but to all solid wood furniture, such as chests of drawers, lowboards, sideboards, and everything made of real wood.
Cleaning and Care: Prevention is the Simplest Measure for Wood Surfaces
Precautionary and preventive measures are the best approach to protect high-quality furniture. To effectively protect wooden furniture from dirt and damage, there are a few simple preventive tips in addition to cleaning and care:
- Use coasters, placemats, or table runners under glasses, cups, and dishes whenever possible. This prevents water or red wine stains on the wood and reduces the risk of scratches.
- Do not place hot pots or pans directly on the table. Coasters, pot holders, or a cutting board as protection from the hot bottom of the pot are a good solution.
- Don’t apply too much pressure! When writing on the table or when children are drawing, always use a pad. This is especially important for softer woods like pine or spruce.
- Protect from direct sunlight! Wood reacts to direct sunlight and darkens. It looks quite unattractive when one part of the table is darker than the other, so it’s better to close the blinds during direct sunlight. Alternatively: With UV-protected windows, wood hardly darkens.
- Nicotine deposits in smokers’ households can also permanently change and yellow wooden furniture. That would be a good reason to quit smoking, wouldn’t it?
- Strong heat and dryness from fireplaces, steel stoves, or direct placement in front of a heater should be avoided, as the wood can dry out severely and form cracks. Therefore, do not place solid wood furniture in the immediate vicinity of such heat sources.
Generally for Cleaning and Care: Use Cleaners and Cleaning Agents with Caution!
Aggressive substances may have a high cleaning effect but can severely damage sensitive surfaces. If the cleaning agent contains the following ingredients, you must test it on an inconspicuous area before widespread use:
- Bleaching agents (e.g., hydrogen peroxide)
- Solvents, acetone
- Abrasive particles (Do not use microfiber cloths, they also have an abrasive effect!)
- Oils/fats (Household oils such as olive oil are not suitable as they become rancid, and the smell is difficult to remove from the wood)
- Acids
- Alcohol
Usually unproblematic for cleaning and care is a slightly damp cotton cloth, mild soapy water, or well-diluted vinegar essence.
Cleaning and Care of Oiled Wood Surfaces
The regular cleaning of furniture from dust and fine dirt is most easily done with a cotton cloth or a feather duster. The cloth should be dry or at most slightly dampened – not wet.
Microfiber cloths are taboo for cleaning and care, as they have an abrasive effect, can cause small scratches in the wood, and can damage the protective layer.
Light soiling can be cleaned with special furniture soap, mild soapy water, and a cotton cloth.
Simply rub the soiled areas with the soap, the cloth, and as little water as possible. After cleaning, the excess soap must be wiped off and the wood dried by rubbing.
After the dampened areas are completely dry, polishing with fleece is recommended. You should use oils or waxes that are harmless to health and gentle on wood – for a good wood climate and your own health.
Heavier soiling and smaller scratches can be tackled with sandpaper. However, this must always be done over a large area and in the direction of the wood grain. Use 120-grit sandpaper for the first sanding and sand the affected area. If the scratch or dirt is no longer visible, sand with finer sandpaper up to a 280 grit. Thoroughly remove the sanding dust with a cotton cloth and then re-oil the sanded wood surface. Apply the oil generously, let it soak in for about 10 minutes, and then remove excess oil with a cotton cloth. After treatment, you should avoid intensive cleaning for at least 5-6 days, as the oil needs time to cure.
Water stains on wooden furniture are usually light or grayish and simply look unattractive. The best care is prevention – see above. If it happens anyway: Sand water stains with a fine sanding pad or a household sponge with a green back or fine sandpaper (240-320 grit), remove the sanding dust, and apply a care oil as described for removing scratches.
Cleaning and Care of Painted Wood Surfaces
Painted solid wood furniture is generally better protected than oiled furniture but also somewhat more difficult to treat in case of damage or heavy soiling.
Crumbs, dust, light soiling, and moisture should ideally be removed dry or wiped with a slightly damp cotton cloth or leather cloth. Then wipe dry – done.
The faster the cleaning – for example, of the table surface after eating – the less problematic it is. Again, do not use microfiber cloths as they abrade the paint.
During cleaning and care, you should check the furniture for scratches and minor damage such as chipping paint. The smaller the damaged area, the easier it is to fix or repair. Moisture that penetrates the wood through chipped areas can cause the paint to swell and, in the worst case, the paint may completely detach from the wood.
For minor paint damage, you can carefully sand the affected area and touch it up with a clear varnish. Small scratches can be polished out with a suitable furniture polish, but the polish must be applied sparingly. However, use furniture polish a maximum of once a year to prevent smudges from forming on the paint. Scratches can also be touched up with a paint pen, although the touch-up will probably be visible upon close inspection. Nevertheless, the touch-up should be done to optimally protect the surface again.
Some stains can be removed without residue using an eraser, and the paint will not be damaged with careful application.
If the stains cannot be removed with an eraser, you can try a drop of dish soap or neutral soap on a suitable cleaning cloth. After cleaning with the moistened cloth, remove the agent and wipe dry. Use the agent as sparingly as possible!
A complete overhaul with full renewal of the paint is a possibility for major damage to restore the furniture to its former glory. Here it is important that all the old paint is sanded off so that the new sealing adheres optimally and the protection of the solid wood is guaranteed.
Cleaning and Care of Wood Surfaces
is generally not ‘rocket science,’ but you should approach the matter carefully and preferably test on an inconspicuous area before treatment, such as the underside of the table. And in general, as with many other things: Prevention is better than cure and usually involves less effort than intensive cleaning and care.